It's a lot to take in

I write this today from Taipei. Yes, the breakaway republic! Except not really any more.

I was trying to think about what I should write with respect to what it was like to be in Beijing for the Olympics, and where China as a whole seems to be as we near the first decade of the 21st century. The Games have yet to conclude, but we're close to the end now so it's appropriate to offer some reflections as to some of the greater significance that lies behind what has transpired over the past couple weeks (and really years for those actually keeping track).

Probably the best place to start is by saying that like many others have already said or otherwise written, I believe we are witnessing a true watershed moment for China. By this I mean the country will continue to undergo noticeable and important changes in its social, political, and economic fabric. In my eyes the tougher question is not whether change will take place but to what degree and in what fashion. I am by nature an optimist, but I try my hardest to mesh that quality with a healthy dose of pragmatism. While I envision a new dawn for China, its sunrise as a newly-defined world power will come slowly and gradually.

This argument is key, in my opinion. Given the still authoritarian flavor of the CCP's rule (see Nicholas Kristof's brilliant and disquieting piece on the farce that is Beijing's 'protest zones': http://www.nytimes.com/2008/08/17/opinion/17kristof.html?_r=2&ref=opinion&oref=slogin&oref=login), it comes as no surprise that change (do we call it progress? democracy? ) will come at a turtle's pace. So it therefore becomes so easy - and even more tempting - to pooh-pooh the lack of reform under Hu Jintao's 'Harmonious Society', but to lambaste alone is to perilously miss the mark. Yes, when the blatant gimmicks and canards surface from Zhong Nanhai, it is both justified and necessary to bring them to light and criticize them. And criticize them we will. But we must remember that as Americans we are no longer blameless, and that we carry less currency today in our reprimands than ever before (or at least in recent history). We've never really been blameless, but we have been a source of near-perfection when it comes to that whole argument over basic human rights and allowing democracy to spread and flourish peaceably. But with buzz words like 'Gitmo' and 'Guantanamo', our sudden confidence in casting the first stone comes to a lurching hault. And for shame because argument - about treating prisoners with dignity and refusing to resort to torture - used to be a gimme! Now we can only murmur our tut-tutting, if that. This topic alone is worthy of a post of its own (and maybe in due time). But the greater point is this: much as before, the United States has to tread carefully with China and not only because they hold and control much of our debt. For negotiating purposes we must come to recognize that it is not enough for us to simply question China's involvement, say, with the Sudanese government. Yes, it is reprehensible that China has ties with a government guilty of genocide. But the Chinese have a response. Who are you, America, to be pointing fingers. "What of your close, hush hush relations with Saudi Arabia? What of your forays in Latin America and SE Asia decades ago? How legitimate were those governments?"

Man! Arguing can be frustrating sometimes and boy, history can be a real mother...

What I also wanted to say is that it's obvious that the Summer Olympics were meant to serve as much for symbolic purposes than for the sports, medals, and grandeur that surrounded them. We've always known this and the international stage the Games set for Tokyo in 1964 and Seoul in 1988 already affirmed this. So what has it meant for China? What will it mean?

For starters, I say it's really too early to tell. I know, what a cop out answer. But really, think about it. The true test has yet to come. With the whole world watching these past few weeks, of course China is going to put on its best face (and interestingly it hasn't in some ways, which I can get to in a later post). But what happens when the lights dim, the country delegations board their planes for home, and the stadiums fall silent once more. Will the roar of cheering fans and the din of awed spectators be replaced by a reinvigorated Chinese mass demanding more reform and liberty? What of the Tibet protests? The post-earthquake China? Once again I am reluctant to see sweeping demands, protests, or changes enacted but one can't help but wonder what will fill the new void.

One quick predictions on China and its relations with Taiwan:
1) China/Taiwan relations - This will get better with time, as it has already since March and the election of Guomindang President Ma Yingjeou. This guy means business and although his approval rating is at a lowly 35% (thanks in large part to a sputtering Taiwanese economy, along with the rest of the world), he is a man of action and it shows. Direct charter flights across the Formosa Straight are now in effect, and tourism laws have been relaxed between the island and mainland. Businessmen are being encouraged by new tax incentives on both sides and there's more to come with opening up shipping via ports and waterways between the two. This is all very promising stuff. China will never grant Taiwan the independence it once sought - and most people understand and recognize this fact. Fortunately, those in power in Taiwan get this too (that important link has been missing for the past 8 years under previous leadership). Ma Yingjeou is above all else practical. He understands the economic and political importance of maintaing and building ties with China, but he also sees that he cannot do so as the expense of what most in Taiwan hold dearest: their culture and way of life. He said in a recent interview with Time magazine that he now views China as both a threat and an opportunity. This is healthy thinking that even one-ups how our current president once felt(note: Bush, prior to being elected in 2000, stated that he viewed China as a competitor only and that his administration would treat it as such. Fortunately he has not followed through on this claim). We'll see what happens but things are looking up.

Ok so I meandered a bit, but my time is short at this internet cafe so I'll be going now. More soon.

Beijing Olympic Fun

Hey everyone,

It's been a while since I last wrote on this blog, but I'm now back in Beijing for the Summer Olympic Games. Several people have asked me what it has been like watching the Olympics in person, so I thought I'd put some of my thoughts online for those interested in reading them.

For starters, it is truly amazing how much of Beijing has changed since I was last here in January 2008. New subway lines have opened, the subway tickets are now sold through automated machines, and of course all of the construction in the Olympic Green (the central location of the games) has been completed. Among other things, I've been entirely blown away by the architecture employed by the Chinese government. By now most people are familiar with the iconoclastic Bird's Nest (the national stadium that to some resembles a gnarled ball of twisted metal) and Water Cube (the aquatic center). The two are placed side by side in the center of the Olympic Green, and are utterly mesmerising to see at night. The Water Cube changes colors frequently and has floating waves projected on its translucent walls. The Cube is easily my favorite, but I must say that I've drastically changed my views on the Bird's Nest after seeing it up close and going inside. Whereas before I thought it looked too avant-garde and convoluted, I now revere the audacity with which its architects, planners, and thousands of workers approached the structure. The stadium looms over its patrons with such largess that it's a little overwhelming at first. Although it has a steely, metallic, and otherwise cold and stiff feeling to it at first, the inside is surprisingly elegant and warm in nature. One of its best features is that it is open-air. At night when one looks up at the Nest and sees the Olympic Flame proudly displayed for all the observe, one can't help but get caught up in the spirit of the moment and feel a sense of wonder and awe.

There's so much more to cover: the security here, the fans from every which place, corner, and cranny of the world, the events, the varying reactions Chinese people have given when asked about the Olympics, and both the good and the bad that I've observed from the tremendous effort the Chinese government has put forth for these summer games. No doubt every possible resource has been poured into the occasion, and from that perspective this Beijing Olympics is unrivaled. But there have been curious and painfully obvious side effects of a Beijing-dictated Olympics, such as the dip in tourism leading up to the games and the strange absence of fans at certain sporting events. It's all enough to remind everyone that these games are, after all, taking place in an authoritarian-led country, however great its economic development in recent years.

More to come soon!

Christmas... in Beijing?

It's been a while since my last post... like light years in the Internet age. But I'm here nonetheless with an update on my experiences in Beijing for all you eager readers out there.

My study abroad program ends next Thursday, which I still can't believe is nearly over. It has been an unforgettable ride, this China experience, and a positive one at that. The plan is to stay in Beijing until December 22, when my sister and I jet off to the Philippines! I'm very excited for the trip and to escape the Beijing cold for some beach time. It hasn't snowed here in Beijing and usually doesn't more than a few times in the winter. However, I'll take the warmer weather any day, AND the Filipinos will be in a much more festive mood when it comes to celebrating Christmas. The Philippines is predominantly Roman Catholic, and apparently they get really into the holiday spirit this time of year. It'll be interesting to see how they celebrate compared with back in the United States, so I'll try to throw something up on the blog about that while there.

On the larger scale, Christmas is not a holiday in China. Nearly everyone here knows of "sheng dan jie" (Chinese for Christmas), but far fewer celebrate it. It is true though that both from a religious and commercial prospective the holiday, and Christianity as a whole, are taking a stronger hold in China. Since the 1980s and the reform era far more Chinese have converted to Christianity. If the pace continues China will one day be host of the world's largest Christian population. Even more interesting to consider is the fact that it could one day also be home to the largest Muslim population. I guess that's what happens when a country boasts 1 billion+ people. Commercially, Christmas has a huge influence here, far greater than any I would have ever guessed. Last weekend I went to Wal-Mart (there are 4 of them in Beijing) with my home stay parents, and some of the workers were decked out in Santa hats. On one of the store levels they had a huge Christmas tree with lights, and a huge cardboard sign for people to sign who were feeling the holiday spirit. Pizza Hut, also popular in Beijing, has most of its employees in Santa hats and it too has decorations abound. Granted, I am sighting all places with American roots but it is bizarre to see for the first time nonetheless.

As always, there's so much more to comment on but I have to call it quits for now. Finals and papers coming up, so it be a few days before the next entry. Take care until then, and keep up with the news of the world in the meantime. If anyone has any advice about what to do in the Philippines or what to do in the event of a coup attempt in Manila, let me know!

Finally, Pictures!

Good afternoon all (my effort to include a greeting that reflects the time of day in which I'm writing a particular post seems moot... most of you reading this are operating in an entirely different time zone),

I'm pleased to let you know that I now have photos of some of my travels in China online! Check out my first batch at:

http://picasaweb.google.com/J.Kent87/XinjiangTrip9140792807

The link option on my blog is on the fritz right now, so you'll have to copy and paste the address to get to the pictures. Sorry!

The album covers an incredible two-week trip I took with my study abroad program from Beijing out to Xinjiang, the huge autonomous region in western China. I promise to write more about my experience there, but for now pictures and short captions will have to do.

Enjoy!

Step Aside Ebay, Google, and Exxon Mobile

Hey-o everyone out there in the big, big world!

I know I just posted on my blog a short while ago, but for some reason I'm finding it especially hard to sleep tonight so I thought I'd have another go here. It might a good thing too because there are still so many topics I want to explore and, alas, so little time. Before we go any further, though, it is 2:15 AM here so let it be known anything you don't like reading this time around will be blamed on lack of sleep. If you enjoy this particular post, though, it was all me :)

The title of this post might have some of you scratching your heads, and there's good reason for that. What would compel me to include three huge business giants (how's that for redundancy?), let alone to phrase it such that they seem on their way out? Well, for starters, Google, Ebay, and Exxon are doing fine as far as I know, and no demise is soon in the making for any of the companies. However, surprise surprise, guess who's come knocking on their door? It's China! Actually, forget a knock, this is an in-your-face bulldozing stiffarm/kick-the-door-down metaphor I'm employing. That's right, China is at it again in the business world.

Many of you probably already know what I'm referring to specifically, but whether you've heard or not, it's remarkable stuff to consider. Alibaba.com, the largest of China's e-commerce companies, doubled its stock price on its first day in the market in Hong Kong. In true colossal fashion, the initial public offering price of HK $13.50 leaped to around HK$30, making it the largest offering since Google. Ebay gets a shout-out in my blog because Alibaba.com own the Taobao website, a wildly popular internet auction site based in China (see Financial Times for full story: http://www.ft.com/cms/s/0/00f7bd1c-8c1e-11dc-af4d-0000779fd2ac.html).

The craziest thing about all of this is that while boasting impressive numbers, this feat is not even the best China has seen before. Last year the Bank of China and the Industrial and Commercial Bank of China combined to had IPOs of HK$25 billion!

In other news, more China-based companies continue to dominate as of the past couple days. On November 5 PetroChina Co., an oil producer, debuted on the Shanghai market and, get this, nearly tripled in value AND become the first company worth $1 trillion (that's in US dollars. For more, see Bloomberg's coverage: http://www.bloomberg.com/apps/news?pid=newsarchive&sid=awaLHmbrWw8A). Among the profiteers of this boom was Warren Buffet, whose Berkshire Hathaway Co had a large staek in PetroChina and who sold on opening day to the tune of an eight-fold gain. The is a big "BUT/HOWEVER" point to make here, though. After this monster day for PetroChina, the stock came crashing down to earth in the NY Stock Exchange, sliding down ten percent. This was largely attributed a report by Bear Stearns that recommended investors sell because they foresaw no good explanation for Petro's vastly higher value in comparison to rivals like Exxon. But even with that PetroChina still trades with 70% higher earnings than Exxon, who before Petro was the largest company in the world in net worth.

Again, some more fat to chew, although this time around I'd saw it's more like a big, honking porterhouse fresh from the flames.

T.I.C.

The learning really never stops. In talking to my home stay parents these past few days, I've learned some interesting and somewhat surprising facts about China. For instance, the other night we were having dinner and talking about travel in general. I was telling my parents about my latest plans for touring SE Asia over winter break (an aside: starting Dec 14 I am island hopping with a friend from Australia to the Philippines, Indonesia, and Thailand. I will make every effort to keep entries regular during that time. Can't wait for the trip! Anyone with travel tips for these parts, drop me a line!), and that started a discussion about where else in the world we'd like to visit. Naturally, I wanted to know if they had been to the U.S. and if not, if they wanted to go. They both emphatically replied that touring the states was something they had always wanted to do. Unfortunately, they have yet to make the trip and the reality is unlikely to change anytime soon. This is because our government back home does not allow for Chinese citizens to enter the country on short leave, unless for business/education purposes. So traveling to the states is out. As a disclaimer, I have yet to read any hard facts to back this claim (though a Google attempt was made), but I trust my home stay family, though there might have been a translation snafu along the way.

I find this restriction placed upon Chinese citizens to be, among other things, interesting and downright unfortunate. Interesting because as far as I know, Chinese can travel nearly anywhere else in the world, including Europe. In fact, my home stay mom is particularly well-traveled (definitely more so than me), and has been to England, France, and Germany. Yet another interesting point to consider is the issue of reciprocity (again, assuming the policy I state here is correct). Now, on the surface, maybe things aren't so bad, if you factor in cases of work or study. Here I am, a strapping young, American student with the opportunity to study overseas in essentially any country of my choosing, including China. Flip the coin, and you get a similar story for Chinese students, who can get over to the good ol' U. S. of A. if their stated purpose is to study there. The story is different for leisurely travel, though. Again, I can still come to China for the sole purpose of seeing the Great Wall and pandas as long as I have my passport and visa, but a Chinese family wanting tour our homeland to get a flavor of the Big Apple, the West Coast, and everything in between is forced to sit on the sidelines until government officials work something out. Honestly, I wouldn't be surprised if within five years the travel restriction in the U.S. is lifted. The fact that it's there to begin with, though, is hardly fair in my book.

Another did you know (a random one, but nonetheless fascinating to me): funeral preparations are done differently in China. Let me explain. Unlike the U.S., where most people can request to be cremated, buried in a casket, or even have organs donated upon their passing, China has a one-rule-fits-all scenario. Everyone must be cremated, no exceptions. Well, unless you count Chairman Mao. His body still rests in a mausoleum in Tiananmen Square that is on display for the world to see (interesting fact: there are actually two "Mao" figures kept in the vault, one being the genuine Mao, and the other a fake look-alike. When I went to see Mao, I couldn't tell if I saw the real deal or not). But even the story of how Mao's body ended up only further demonstrates how some very private things in China are just simply not left up to the individual. The Great Helmsman himself requested to be cremated, but upon his death, the Politburo made a quick decision to have his body preserved. So even one of the most powerful leaders in China's vast history didn't get his way in the end. As my friends and I so often say when something happens in Beijing that runs contrary to what we're used to back home, "T...I...C... This Is China."

Just a couple facts to mull over as you crunch away on your cereal, fight your way through traffic, or breathe in fresh air as you walk through campus or your neighborhood.

Be Thankful for Your Furnace!

With all the talk there is about China's rapid economic development, there are some things in this country that continue to just plain baffle me. For instance, many stores you go here do no accept credit cards. It's cash only, and usually no checks are allowed either. This gets particularly awkward if, say, you're a student having to pay your tuition for the year and to do so you must almost carry a briefcase full of cash (unmarked bills, just like in the movies). The surprising thing is that this "cash-only" phenomenon is still highly prevalent even in urban areas like Beijing. For a city with less than a year before the 2008 Summer Olympics, this can't be good news. I anticipate many a foreigner, particularly westerners, are going to have to get used to toting around mucho moolah, unless Beijing has some quick trick up its sleeve to make credit card machines available at most places. It is true that the malls here are Visa/Mastercard-friendly, but still it's not much.

What really prompted me to write this post, though, is how the heating of most apartments in China works. My homestay family lives in a danwei ("work unit"), meaning that everyone in the apartment has at least one family member who works in the office building adjacent to the apartment. While incredibly convenient for commutes to work, there are downsides to the danwei layout. Some of you may be thinking, "wow, how awkward it would be to have to live next to your boss", and you definitely have a point there.

On a greater level though, people in danwei-style apartments don't enjoy the freedom to decide when to turn on their heaters! Right now it is a chilly 37 degrees out, and none of the apartments have on their heat. Why? It is Beijing policy that no heat is to be used in homes prior to November 15 each year. I still don't know if this is official or informal policy, but regardless it makes my toes cold. I learned of this bizarre fact yesterday when talking to my home stay parents. It helped me put into context their daily question of "aren't you cold?" when seeing me strut around the apartment in shorts and a t-shirt. To help adjust to the frosty fall weather that has recently descended upon Beijing, my parents bundle up every day in multiple layers (yesterday my dad wore 3 pairs of pants), so I could understand their disbelief in seeing me donned in only one layer.

Honestly though, this small experience made me realize on a larger scale how much we as Americans still take for granted. I never think twice about turning up the heat in our house in Minnesota if it gets too cold (though my real dad has a killer instinct about when that dial changes and I usually consider this point). I jokingly told my family that come November 15 we should have a "we now have heat" party, and we had a good laugh in imagining such a festivity. Seriously though, in the end this lack of heat is no joke, especially once the cold sets in and one can't do anything about it save throw on another blanket.